13 Sep Tasting of MorisFarms Berbaspinosa
In the luggage of sensations I carried with me, returning from my recent visit to Moris Farm, the ones about tasting BARBASPINOSA – almost as a premiere – particularly stand out.
Perhaps because that name, BARBASPINOSA, uncovers a tale which is full of charm: it recalls the name of a character in a book of fairy tales which was written by the family progenitor, Giuseppe Leo Moris; in the room where I am with Giulio and Ranieri (the patriarch’s great grand-children), the fireplace warmth and the suffused light from the few lamps create an atmosphere as we are travelling back in time, up to the days when BARBASPINOSA was the main character of fantasy.
It is not only an emotional suggestion. Since the opening of the bottle, since the lifting of the precious cork, since the accurate transfer to the decanter (to let its nectar breathe, at its awakening after resting in the glass), the present and tangible seduction of this ancient and new wine overwhelms: they are red berry fruits; they are the barks of the Maremma woods.
Respecting its time, we let it oxygenate, before dumping in its tasting; we can already sense the enchantment we will be victims of. A name, BARBASPINOSA, that vigorously stands out, representing the wine temper. It evokes the idea of a bristly face, with entangled hair, that needs to be patiently brushed, to become soft and smooth. Well, the same way, this red, equipped with lively tannin and acidity, needs to mature in time: actually it will better benefit – gaining softness and balance – from its 12 months in the barrique and 4 more in the bottle, before being put on the market.
We finally pour it in the glasses. An intense and bright ruby red; a smell of black fruits (plum, blackberry: ranges of Sangiovese), spices (pepper, licorice: the result of its elevage in small barrels and its refinement in glass), tobacco (from the kegs, which are a second passage here). A lively and soft taste: the hot flame and the fresh wind, like a sunny and breezy afternoon on Monteregio hills.
Matches? The most demanding ones: a ragù first course, a boar meat stew, a vigorous aged cheese. I experienced them myself, to let the desire grow in you too, in Hong Kong.
或許是因為其名字BARBASPINOSA揭露了一個引人入勝的故事，這款紅酒令人聯想起由一位摩利士家族祖先 – 基利士比‧李奥‧摩利士所寫的童話故事中一個同名角式。我與古里奧及拉里尼 (基利士比‧李奥‧摩利士之偉大後代) 在一個房間中細味BARBASPINOSA紅酒; 房間裡的壁爐火光，加上一些四散燈光，營造出古典氣氛，彷彿帶領我們回到BARBASPINOSA成為夢幻角式之年代。
BARBASPINOSA紅酒不只予人無窮幻想空間。由開酒時移除那珍貴的木塞，到親手從玻璃瓶倒出美酒 (使如花蜜般的香味從瓶子中釋放出來)，令這款宜古宜今的紅酒散發出顛倒眾生的懾人魅力。把紅莓放進由意大利瑪利瑪地區木材製成的木桶，再加以醞釀，便大功告成。把紅莓放進木桶前，我們要先讓其自然氧化。之後，我們便能感受到令人陶醉的香氣。BARBASPINOSA這個與別不同的名字，代表着酒的非凡個性。其酒香令人聯想到一個長滿毛髮的人; 他需悉心梳洗，才能使毛髮柔順。同一道理，BARBASPINOSA這款含高單寧酸的紅酒酸性較強，需經長時間釀製才得以成熟。因此，我們要把紅酒放進酒櫃醞釀12個月，再放進玻璃瓶內醞釀4個月方可出售。這樣，酒的質感會更幼滑，味道會更均勻。
最後，我們把酒倒進杯內，便可看見奪目耀眼的紅色酒光，並深深感受到黑色水果 (黑李子、黑莓加上各種桑嬌維賽葡萄)、調味香料 (把胡椒及甘草放進小桶內加以昇華，再放進玻璃瓶加以提煉) 加上煙草 (把煙草放在小桶內醞釀兩次，令其香味倍增) 之柔和香氣。這種酒香彷彿帶領我們來到意大利蒙特雷喬山區，於一個風和日麗的下午，感受柔和陽光及清風。