04 Apr Morellino DOCG Riserva
Every time there is an opportunity to go to MorisFarm, the time spent with Giulio and Ranieri (the generation that currently has the management of the company under its control) is not only an interlude of pleasant conviviality, but also the opportunity to exchange more thoughtful impressions and ideas with them, as it were, especially – it goes without saying – on wine and the sensation of wine. Just look: one of their products that best lends itself to be a catalyst for some kind of comparison is the Morellino DOCG Riserva. A label that, in the context of the overall affection with which I would embrace all the others, I have, however, to declare sincerely, to love in a special way.
For this is the time when it is decreed, together with my wonderful hosts, to open a bottle of Riserva, for our inevitable collective tasting session. It is a moment that I look forward to with special longing. Because already being able to aspire voluptuously to the first aroma of this elegant and energetic red wine, allows me (and it is a discovery that is always renewed, giving intact the thrill of the first time) to touch by hand the heights to which those potential Morellino can reach in a version of nature we find expressed in a transformative manner (joyful, is clear: not to be touched) whose possible future outcomes can be instinctively felt but not seen face to face. While here we find them, declined in the refinement of the flavours of chocolate, dried plum, and an unusual and elegant almond.
A patrician elegance of wine that, however, this bottle gives generously with democratic simplicity. Not judging in any way the requirements of a rank (qualification Reserve, due to superior products matured more slowly) that would risk, if not dispensed with the affability that we receive here, to become sophistry: at least to remove the product from the possibility of an understanding that, instead, keeps it immediate and dense with enthusiasm.
Almost a parable of an adolescence which then comes to refine its already exciting quality in an adulthood of full awareness, the Riserva del Morellino unfolds moments of true nobility, but communicated with a spirit of modesty, placing itself, one could say, in the service of those who drink. Extraordinary as the refined development, the fruit of a skilful transition in oak barrels (12 months, before another six in glass), which can be told with accessibility of language: the nose, in addition to the previously mentioned cocoa, gives suggestions of coffee, liquorice, nutmeg, a pinch of black rye bread; the palate, the fibrous dryness of an athlete (a falconer), acidity and tannins still fully alive, but soft as a caress.
Which partners would live up to it? Meats, certainly; and the first course from the land is important: game for example. But also cheeses with ambitious seasoning, whose forceful flavour will not find obstacles or barriers on the part of the Riserva; indeed, all the softness needed in an embrace of mutual exaltation. In any corner of the world, in Tuscany as in Hong Kong, the highest nobility is always the soul.
每次當我有機會参觀摩利士農莊，興莊主古里奧及拉里尼(現共同管理酒莊)相聚時，這不只是一個愉快的酒宴，還給予我們一個互相分享經驗及意見的機會; 這些尤其是關於喝酒及品酒的經歷，確是令人獲益更多。我認為能令人對品酒這門學問有更深體會的便是珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒; 這款紅酒是摩利士農莊的產品之一。我不得不承認，它是我的最愛。
所以在與兩位友好莊主相聚時，我便選擇了珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒。這個品酒會不容錯過，令我引頸以待。珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒，典雅且酒味濃郁。品嘗者先輕輕感受它散發出來的第一股酒香，便能進入Morellino系列紅酒之最高境界 (每一口都帶給人不同的新鮮感及驚喜)，就是自然地令人感到一種前所未有的喜悅。這種潛在境界只能靠感覺加以領會，不能靠肉眼察覺，並帶有彷彿像朱古力、梅乾、加上與別不同的上等果仁氣味。珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒高雅卻帶點簡樸，在口中持續散發濃郁酒香。雖然冒着一定風險，但這種感覺及味道並沒有動搖這款紅酒成為首選紅酒的條件 (「珍藏」這名銜代表需更長時間變得成熟的上等紅酒)。如真的要與人分享一些口感及味道較簡單的紅酒，至少也要選擇一些不能輕易及刻意感受的紅酒。就如踏入青春期的青少年一樣，他們的身體條件需要時間才能變得成熟，以成為一個真正成年人。珍藏Morellino Docg紅酒確是帶有貴氣，但卻顯得平凡，使好酒之人愛不釋手。若要釀製美酒，過程必要與別不同。釀酒者要把酒放進酒櫃妥善釀製 (為時12個月，再把酒存放在玻璃瓶內6個月) 。在變得成熟後，酒會散發出一陣獨特味道，帶有剛才所提及的可可粉、咖啡、甘草、肉荳蔻籽、加上一點令人陶醉的黑麥包氣味; 入口後，酒味會像運動員 (或捕獵者) 所吃的纖維般，帶有乾涸感覺、酸性及丹寧酸味道，口感像撫摸般輕柔。
品嘗珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒時，應配上甚麽下酒菜才對呢? 答案一定是肉類。首先最好選擇如野味的肉類; 但亦可選擇特定陳年芝士。這樣，其味道才不會掩蓋珍藏Morellino Docg 紅酒之酒香; 而其柔滑口感亦能與酒的質感完美配合。在世界的任何角落，包括意大利托斯卡納、甚至香港，只有能感動人心的酒才稱得上是最高貴的。