23 Aug Avvoltore MorisFarms – SuperTuscan
By sipping – with the owners of the farm, Giulio Parentini and Ranieri Moris – the MorisFarm wines, we gained some habits which are a sort of ritual in my quick visits to the farm. One of these rituals is spicing the tastings with quotes, aphorisms, traditional and contemporary sayings, also taken from the “literature” of commercials. Among these latter ones, I think one fits particularly well – as a matter of fact it is inevitably quoted – when it comes to opening a bottle of Avvoltore: it is the motto that runs “Power is nothing without control”.
Yes: Avvoltore – main label in Moris range: a “Supertuscan category” which, since 1988, the year of its debut, has a primary role in the Maremma farm – is a real homage, I would even say a monument, to that motto. It actually contains a principle of energy which is as much strong, as much sharp, as intrinsically controlled by an innate sense of proportion. You can already feel it when lifting the cork, when, approaching your nostrils to the base, then to the side of the cork (a due inspection and a first check of the perfumes that we will soon explore fully), you are welcome and wrapped by voluptuous fine tones (vanilla, cinnamon, licorice, tobacco) whose sensuality is absolutely elegant and no arrogant at all, not a bit.
Actually a wine must honor its name, Avvoltore, a lord of the skies, the Hawk of Maremma (that often hovers, almost guarding them, over Moris vineyards), whose nature is proper of an athletic predator: male, austere, inclined to show elegance in its severe manners, in its essential gestures; in a distinguished refinement which is full of sobriety, but away from weakness, pleonasm and redundancy. Two words are enough: a peremptory rapacious, not a vain peacock.
Avvoltore has its own times. As the hawk hunting technique requires patience in waiting for the right moment to nosedive, so a respectful approach to the opulence of this multiple-dna red – 75% Sangiovese base, with the international contributions of Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Syrah (5%) – requires the right oxygenation, before being able to better understand the fruit pulpiness and the maturation velvetness, between barrique (one year, in mostly new barrels) and bottle (six months). When it is time though, the sips guarantee deeply pleasant shivers. After the ruby red lightnings, while stirring the glass, here’s the fleshiness of plums (also overripe), the aroma of black cherries, of cocoa that makes the fluid deep and even dense and lively together. The aromas persist even after drinking: in the fresh herbal balsamic cinchona and rhubarb.
Yes, it is worth repeating it: Avvoltore has its own times. After tasting it, the juice obliges you to take time to push away your cares and reflect over its grand style, that is condensed in a calm strength. Then you can imagine it on the table, along with suitable courses; meat (game, especially), but also fine cold cuts (boar in all ways, deer, venison) and of course cheese, including the dense sense champions: blue cheese and long aged cheese, both in cave and trench. “Opponents” that will quiver in the dish, but be sure, Avvoltore can bridle them. Because power (here we go) is nothing without control.
與兩位莊主 – 古里奥及拉里尼細味摩利士農莊之佳釀時，我們養成了一些習慣; 這些習慣亦可稱得上是我每次匆匆到訪該農莊之例行公事。其中之一就是分享典故、格言、傳统
對，Avvoltore紅酒是摩利士農莊眾多佳釀中的皇牌之選; 同時亦是Supertuscan紅酒系列其中一款。該系列於1988年面世，自始便成為瑪利瑪農莊之頂級美酒，備受酒客推崇。我甚至可以說，Avvoltore紅酒最能象徵「控制才是權勢」之格言。這款酒有一種懾人的自然氣勢。事實上，這種氣勢源於支配萬物的天然之氣。在打開木塞後，當鼻子沿木塞底部至邊垂輕輕一吸 (正面體驗及首次感受即將洋溢於我們鼻腔的酒香)，你已能感受到其威力。之後你便會感受到一股催情般的芳香 (像雲利拿香葉、肉桂粉，甘草混合煙草之氣味) ，並為之著迷。其典雅脫俗的氣質無與論比，為你帶來極至感官享受。
事實上，Avvoltore之命名卻沾污了這款紅酒之美譽。Avvoltore意指天神 (瑪利瑪農場之鷹，在上空盤旋，幾乎成為摩利士酒莊之守護者) 。這守護鷹有着如強壯獵人般的特質: 雄偉、富威嚴、動作粗豪、性格剛烈、毫不優雅、工作時異常嚴蕭、總是不甘示弱、嘮嘮叨叨、及多此一舉。簡單來說，Avvoltore之命
我們需於特定時間品嘗Avvoltore紅酒。品酒就如捕獵一樣，需要耐性，等待良機，一擊即中。上述詞語顯示了我對這款含有多種脫氧核糖核酸之高貴紅酒多麽敬愛。在一瓶Avvoltore紅酒的成份中，桑嬌維塞葡萄佔75%; 而來自世界各地的赤霞珠葡萄及西拉葡萄分別佔20%及5%。這些材料需先在酒櫃釀製一年 (每次多採用新酒櫃) ，然後於瓶中釀製半年，再經適度氧化，紅酒才得以成熟，變得幼滑。到了開酒之時，只要喝一小口，便足以觸動神經，令人感到無比舒暢。在赤紅酒光一閃即逝後，把杯輕輕一搖，便能想像李子 (已熟透) 果肉的柔嫩質感、及感受黑車厘子及可可粉 (使酒更濃郁幼滑，散發更持久酒香) 的芳香; 每一口皆充滿含葉脂的新鮮金雞納葉及大黃葉香味。喝光後，酒香仍會於口腔中持續散發。
，Avvoltore紅酒值得再三回味。我們需於特定時間品嘗這款紅酒; 喝一口後，你定能受其傲氣感染，並拋開一切煩憂。之後，傲氣會轉化為平和心情。此時你便可一邊享受這種心情，一邊品嘗枱上如肉類 (尤其是野味) 、精緻冷盤 (多為豬肉及鹿肉) 及芝士 (包括有小孔及坑紋的香濃上等藍芝士及陳年芝士) 等小吃。這些小吃雖然美味可口，但由於Avvoltore紅酒氣勢逼人，其酒香支配着味蕾，這些小吃絕